Frequently Asked Questions

Often, yes, when the ductwork and air handler sit in the attic. Spraying the underside of the roof deck brings the ducts inside the cooled space, which cuts the heat they pick up. If your ducts are not in the attic or the attic is simple to insulate, blown-in insulation with good air sealing may give you most of the benefit for less money.

No spray foam is fireproof. Foam plastic insulation generally has to be covered by a thermal barrier such as drywall in living spaces, or by an ignition barrier or a tested coating in attics and crawl spaces, depending on the product and how the space is used. We tell you which applies to your job and include it in the quote.

National guides put installed foam at about $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot, and roof-deck jobs for a typical attic at roughly $1,500 to $9,000. Your price depends on attic size and pitch, foam type and thickness, and whether old insulation has to come out. We give you a written number after we see the space.

The 2023 Florida energy code calls for R-38 in ceilings for new work in Climate Zone 2, which includes Manatee County. The Department of Energy recommends R-38 to R-49 when adding to an attic that already has 3 to 4 inches. We measure what you have and quote what it takes to get there.

Open-cell is the usual pick for a roof deck in a home attic: it seals air well, costs less per square foot and lets a roof leak show through instead of hiding it. Closed-cell is the better choice where moisture is a concern or more R-value is needed in a thin space, like metal buildings and raised floors on island homes.

FPL offers an instant $220 rebate on ceiling insulation when your existing level is below R-8 and the work is done by an FPL-approved participating contractor. Spray foam qualifies under its current standards. Check FPL's list and its Home Energy Analysis process before you schedule work.

Some shingle makers have rules about unvented attics. Check your roof warranty terms before you decide, and we can explain how the assembly works so you can ask the right question.

Open-cell foam lets water pass through slowly, so leaks usually show as a stain. Closed-cell can trap water against the deck. That is one reason we use open-cell on most home roof decks and inspect the roof before we spray.

HomeGuide advises staying out for at least 24 hours after spraying. We tell you the time for the product we use and ventilate the space while it cures.

Block walls in finished homes are usually covered by furring and drywall. During a remodel, foam can go on the inside of the block. For finished walls, the attic is often a better place to spend the money.

The 2023 Florida Building Code, Energy Conservation lists R-38 for ceilings in Climate Zone 2, which includes Manatee County. Existing homes are not forced to upgrade, but R-38 is a sensible target when you add insulation.

FPL offers an instant $220 rebate when your current ceiling insulation is below R-8 and an FPL-approved participating contractor does the work. Check its program page and contractor list before you book.

Not always. Dry, clean insulation can stay, and new material goes on top. Wet, moldy, rodent-soiled or matted insulation should come out, and so should anything in the way of air sealing.

A radiant barrier cuts some of the heat radiating from the roof, but it does not stop air leaks or replace insulation depth. Sealing and insulating the ceiling usually comes first.

It depends on the material, since cellulose and fiberglass reach a given R-value at different depths. We list the target depth and R-value on the quote and leave rulers in the attic.

Cellulose is treated with borate fire retardants. It is not a pest barrier, though, so any rodent entry points should be fixed before new insulation goes in.

It depends on the attic. If ducts are in good shape and the attic is open, blown-in over a sealed ceiling is good value. If the air handler and long duct runs are up there, roof-deck foam can do more.

Most attic top-ups take a single day, including sealing. Removal of old material adds time.

The work happens in the attic, and we cover the area under the hatch. Removal of old material is the messier part, and we vacuum it straight to bags outside.

Closed-cell foam applied directly to the steel keeps humid air from reaching the cold metal, which is what causes the drip. It is the most common fix for condensation in steel buildings.

It depends on whether you plan to cool the space. One to two inches stops condensation; more adds R-value for a cooled shop. We price the thickness that fits how you use it.

Yes. The roof takes the most sun, so many owners start there and add walls later.

Insulating storage buildings often does not, but converting a building to living or conditioned work space may. Check with your county or city building office.

Yes. Foam on the roof panels deadens the drumming of rain and cuts outside noise, a side benefit owners often notice first.

HomeAdvisor puts it at 20 to 50 years when applied correctly and recoated every 10 to 15 years. Upkeep of the coating is what makes the difference.

Often, if the existing roof and deck are dry and sound. Wet insulation and damaged decking have to come out first.

Foam bonds to the deck with no seams for wind to catch, but any roof can be damaged by debris. Inspect it after a storm and patch any punctures quickly.

Only on low-slope or flat sections, such as additions, porches and carports. Pitched shingle and tile roofs are not suited to it.

Look at it at least once a year and after any major storm. Catching a puncture or worn coating early keeps water out of the foam and the deck below.

If it got wet and stayed wet, yes. Small, dry spots may be fine. We check how far the water spread before recommending removal.

That depends on your policy and the cause. Ask your insurer; we can give you a written scope and photos of the attic.

Yes, but it is slower than loose fill because it has to be cut or scraped. It costs more per square foot.

We stop and recommend testing by a licensed abatement company. We do not disturb suspect material.

Most attics take one to two days: removal and cleanup first, then air sealing and new insulation. Larger or heavily contaminated attics take longer.